A journey of discovery and learning in the South Rim
The Grand Canyon: A Transformational Trip
There are few places more iconic than the Grand Canyon. Although it’s not the largest or the deepest canyon in the World, it is definitely the most iconic.
It took about 6 million years for the Colorado River to carve this wonderful place in the high plateau region of Northwestern Arizona.
It is one of the most visited National Parks in the United States, with more than 6 million tourists per year in the second part of the last decade (stats here).
Interestingly the number of tourists grew by more than 50% in just a few years after 2010, which is the year when Instagram was launched and became popular.
I want to walk you through our journey and hopefully inspire you to plan the perfect ethical Grand Canyon trip and have a meaningful experience.
The area has the power to change the way you see yourself and the World.
What I’m about to share with you today is not a guide of tourist hotspots and viewpoints. Although there’s plenty of that too.
This is my humble attempt at trying to describe in words the feeling this wonderful place leaves in your heart. And my concern that our habits might be damaging the World.
It is also a mirror into how I plan for trips and what lessons I try to take on my next ones.
Though not my first visit, it was my wife’s first experience in the Grand Canyon.
There is nothing like seeing the look in the eyes of someone who truly cares for nature, getting to see this place for the first time.
The Grand Canyon is one of the most beautiful places on Earth but its beauty doesn’t come only from magnitude. It has the power to make us think of who we are.
However majestic and strong, the Grand Canyon needs our help and in this article I will try to take you on a journey of discovery, admiration and real concern.
How long should you stay
Both times I’ve visited the Grand Canyon have been connected to business trips to the West Coast of the United States.
The first time was four years ago and I didn’t plan anything. I just rented a car with a colleague and drove to the Hoover Dam and then to Skywalk & Eagle Point.
We ended up rushing from one place to another, taking photos without even understanding what we were seeing. I had to research later to better grasp the grandiose spirit of the area.
I speak from experience, don’t make this mistake!
Most travelers don’t plan and end up disappointed. For a truly meaningful experience you should think of what you want to do, build a plan and most importantly book in advance.
My second visit wasn’t going to follow the same pattern.
In the years since my first visit to the Grand Canyon some truly important aspects in my life have changed. My girlfriend became my wife and with the help of my work, my mission to understand nature was now much clearer.
I planned for us to stay for three days starting our journey on the South Rim in the Grand Canyon Village.
I wish we would have stayed at least one more day!
How to get to the Grand Canyon
As an international tourist, visiting the Grand Canyon means you will have to fly into Las Vegas or Phoenix if you’re planning to start with the South Rim.
You can also fly to Salt Lake City if you want to visit the North Rim. For travelers from the US there is also a small airport in Flagstaff which is only one hour South of Grand Canyon Village in the South Rim.
We drove about five hours from Las Vegas enjoying the changing scenario and eagerly dreaming for the moment we would take the first look together at this natural wonder.
Where to stay
This is where planning and researching in advance really pays off.
North Rim or South Rim? The North Rim is open between mid May and Mid October as it can get lots of snow in the winter. This area is also less accessible so if you go there you can have more peace.
However, there are also less viewpoints and activities available for tourists.
The South Rim is open all year long, has over two dozen viewpoints, great trails for all skills and educational activities for children and adults alike.
If you choose a journey on the South Rim, then I recommend staying in Grand Canyon Village.
Grand Canyon Village is a historic little place with nice amenities and lots of charm. This is the only place in the region where I can recommend putting your tourist money to work if you want to buy authentic American Indian crafts, souvenirs or even pay for a tour.
The problem we had is that we could not find a single available room there even though we started our research and reservations six months in advance.
If like us you won’t find accommodation in the village, the next best thing I recommend is staying in Tusayan.
Tusayan is a small resort town just south of the park entrance and offers plenty of rooms for any budget.
Here you’ll find some restaurants as well as a small supermarket and between the months of March and September there is a shuttle going from Tusayan to the park’s Visitor Center.
From Tusayan there are several local businesses organizing hiking adventures through the canyon, horseback tours through the Kaibab Forest and Jeep Tours with expert guides.
The town also has a local airport where you can choose a helicopter tour that will leave you with unique views and a strong appreciation of the beauty you’ll literally dive through.
Read on to find out how this went for us and please remember to always make sure your money goes to local businesses.
Discovering the Grand Canyon at Mather Point
Once I finished all the business meetings I had in Las Vegas, my wife and I met with some friends and spent the last evening there laughing and chatting our way into the night.
And no we didn’t gamble, it’s not really our cup of tea although people seemed to have fun.
The next morning on June 24th, we got the rental car and started our drive towards Tusayan. The weather was really nice with around 20°C (70°F) and bright blue skies, we hit the road just after 10am to avoid the morning rush.
I always enjoyed driving so the five or so hours ahead made me feel very excited and I couldn’t wait to experience all that I had planned for us.
Once we arrived, we just dropped everything at the hotel and then rushed to the visitor center to get our first look of the Grand Canyon.
We got there with plenty of time before sunset, just when the sun was getting ready to put on a fantastic show.
I will always remember the first moments when my wife saw the Grand Canyon at Mather Point. It was emotional and something you have to live to understand.
In fact everyone should feel what we felt that evening as I believe it wakes up the purest form of love we’re capable of feeling.
The sunset changed the World around us and everything became very silent.
We noticed our reactions to being there, together, on the edge of a mile deep canyon representing raw history of the Earth. Truly magical.
Admiration and peace over the edge of Grand Canyon
The next couple of days of our adventure found us diving deeply into the overwhelming beauty of this place.
Staying in Tusayan meant that every morning we got to enter the park once more, giving us more feelings of anticipation about the day ahead.
We started our first full day at the visitor center, which has a lot of interesting information, then went to Yavapai Point and the Museum of Geology.
Afterwards we started walking on the Rim Trail and stopped along the way at the viewpoint. This is an easy walk and one that I would if you’re short on time.
However, be ready to find large crowds of people along the way especially in peak season.
We then decided to take the Grandview Trail for a more intimate view of the Grand Canyon.
This trail was built by miners in 1893 and has some steep sections right at the beginning and it’s very interesting to see how cobblestone was used to get it built. Be careful though, it can be slippery.
You won’t find as many people here and the further you go, the more silent it gets. This trail does require a good fitness level and of course you need proper shoes, sun protection, water and even hiking poles.
The length of the Grandview Trail is 3 miles to Horseshoe Mesa camping site. Adding the return makes it 6 miles (10 km). If you plan to camp you’ll need a permit and careful planning because last time I checked, drinking water was not available on the mesa.
Although we were tired by now, we couldn’t get enough of the beautiful vistas and we stopped by a few.
For memorable places I would recommend visiting Pipe Creek Vista, Duck on a Rock, Grandview point looking towards the Sinking Ship and Desert View Watchtower.
All these are easily accessible regardless of your fitness level, have ample car parks and are absolutely breathtaking.
They tend to get a bit crowded but you can find spots to rest and meditate or watch the sunset.
We had dinner at a nice little Mexican restaurant in Tusayan, owned by a local family and it was amazing. We had vegan tacos which they gladly adapted for us and even added extra beans and guacamole. You just can’t go wrong with Mexican food in the US.
The next morning we headed for the Bright Angel Trail, which is another fantastic way to escape the crowds at the Grand Canyon.
This is a much longer trek though, about 12 miles in total to Plateau Point. I definitely only recommend this trail to those with good fitness levels and with appropriate gear. We didn’t do the entire trail but we enjoyed a few good hours away from the crowds before returning to Grand Canyon Village for a late lunch.
On our last day in Tusayan, we had a nice breakfast at the hotel this time and enjoyed watching another American wonder: the pancake making machine. Just press the button and get ready to be amazed.
After that we packed everything and headed to the local airport where we booked a helicopter tour.
The pilot was an amazing, third-generation resident of Arizona and although he really loved being a pilot and tour guide, he was also eager to get back home to his newborn baby.
I absolutely love meeting new people and hearing their fascinating stories. Only travel can provide such memorable experiences.
This was my first time flying on a helicopter and getting the chance to do it here, I cannot say how grateful I am for this opportunity.
After takeoff, we flew over the Kaibab forest towards the canyon and the pilot was giving us an overview of the area, its history and geography.
It took about 5 minutes for us to approach the canyon and in fact at one point it seemed like we’re doing a forest tour.
All of a sudden the pilot told us to look ahead and in a matter of seconds the ground beneath us opened with spectacular views everywhere.
From up here we could see what the power of the mighty Colorado river did over time.
It feels like a different planet. I was waiting for an Imperial Star Destroyer to appear anytime.
This is by far one of the most amazing things I have ever done in my life. We are truly blessed with a beautiful planet and we must treasure it.
If you’re ever in the area do not skip this experience, it is an incredible lesson in history, geography and human emotion.
Also, make sure you have cash. The pilots do an awesome job and they will earn your tip.
We really loved our time in the area of the Grand Canyon Village. One more day would have been great as I would have liked for us to explore the South Kaibab Trail with a stop at Cedar Ridge.
If you’re there and up for a little challenge, consider the South Kaibab Trail. It’s got great places for a picnic and fantastic views. Make sure to start very early at sunrise in the summer because the heat can be tough in the afternoon.
Concern that our flawed value system is overwhelming nature
Once we landed we said goodbye to the pilot and headed for the car, the next part of our adventure would take us East towards Page, where we would stop for the night.
We couldn’t wipe the smiles off our faces for the entire day. The experience of being in this amazing place and seeing it for the first time through my wife’s eyes has been a blessing.
In the afternoon, we arrived in Page, a small town in Coconino county, Arizona where we would stay with a local family that converted part of their house into a room they now rent to tourists.
After we parked our car, we were greeted by our hosts and a friendly dog. We exchanged a few words and immediately felt really welcome.
The room is decorated with a very nice taste, has a separate entry and a private bathroom. It’s really spacious and the hosts left nice touches everywhere, such as a small fruit basket, books and magazines with information about the area and a guide telling us everything about places to eat and things to do.
Judging by the very large journal, filled with nice messages from tourists World around, they have hosted quite a few travelers.
I feel happy with our decision to stay here. Not only is it nice but I feel that staying here we give back to the locals for causing disruption in the area.
If you’re wondering, yes we did book this place on Airbnb and it worked out well this time. I feel that this was the original idea of Airbnb, living with locals with minimum disruption and making sure the money supports them directly.
More on my issues with Airbnb in another article.
According to our hosts, the population of Page is around 7,000. This place used to be quiet, with tourists visiting in peace for natural wonders such as the Horseshoe Bend or man made such as the Glen Canyon Dam and Lake Powell.
However, this situation has changed dramatically in the last decade.
According to the National Park Service, in 2018 the national parks received more than 318 million visitors, that’s not too far from the entire US population.
The number of visitors to the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area in 2019 was 4.3 million, doubling in less than a decade (stats here).
Horseshoe Bend used to be a place where locals would go to relax and saw around 4,000 visitors per year just a decade ago.
In 2011, just one year after Instagram was launched and became popular, the Horseshoe Bend registered an overwhelming 100,000 visitors. After 2015 the number jumped 10 times and in 2018 more than 2.2 million people visited this charming place.
People no longer visit these places for peace, they go there to take photos for social media.
Our visit to this magical spot was truly eye-opening. We wanted to enjoy the sunset, happy to be together in such a wonderful location.
Once we arrived we realized we were part of a large mass of people all in a hurry to arrive at this once serene location.
We started to walk faster, carried by the tension in the air. We stopped and looked at each other with concern. Are we all killing this place with our admiration? Why did we come here in the first place?
All of a sudden we smelled fried chicken and immediately saw a group carrying buckets with them towards the viewpoint.
I guess 0.6 miles walk from the car park can make one feel peckish.
The evening there was wonderful though and I must say I understand why so many people visit every year.
I don’t mean to judge anyone, this is just an invitation to think. Why are we truly making the journey to see these places?
Did social media do something to us? Are we not able to see the World anymore unless it’s through a smartphone screen?
The fact that the reasons for visiting have now changed, unfortunately is reflected in the growing number of accidents reported each year in places like the Horseshoe Bend.
People tragically fall off the edge in large numbers, giving the authorities no choice than to install large metal fences mutilating the pristine beauty of the area.
I am truly concerned for our future because I believe this behavior is reflecting in other areas of life. Even nature can’t take our eyes from screens and stop us from counting likes.
Conclusion
Do you remember what it was like to visit a place before Instagram?
Are we now getting more excited about posting enviable photos on social media, than actually being there?
All these apps and platforms are powerful tools that enable us to live lives that were not possible before.
Social media is clearly an important and beneficial part of our personal and business lives.
However, it seems that it is changing our values. With so many messages and notifications around us, it is becoming difficult to avoid comparing our life to the “ideal” stories we’re seeing everywhere.
This is harming us and it is surely harming our environment.
However, making travel more meaningful is easy and very fun. We can all take some simple, practical steps to improve our relationship with the places we visit and with ourselves.
Here are some of my ideas but please contribute with your own in the comments:
- Use your eyes to see the World, not your phone. Put it away!
- Interact with the locals, hear their stories and learn about life there.
- Learn some local history before your visit. This will completely transform the way you see the place and give you a unique sense of respect.
- Spend your money with locals. From accommodation to souvenirs and dining options, give your money a special purpose.
- Use public transport wherever possible.
- Go beyond the tourist hotspots. Take a day trip with a local guide, or simply enjoy a trail off the beaten path.
- Be aware of local customs and traditions.
- Consider volunteering with local organizations.
- Pick up litter while you walk or run. It’s good exercise for you and nature. Have you ever heard of plogging?
I hope you’ve enjoyed going with me on this beautiful trip. This was a transformational time in my life, a helpful experience on my journey towards becoming a kinder, more conscious traveler.
What to read next
- What is Ethical Travel and How To be an Ethical Tourist
- 10 Ways to Reduce Your Carbon Footprint When You Travel
- 9 Ways to Reduce Waste When You Fly
- Best Resources to Help You Prepare For Global Travel During Covid-19
What else can we do to protect popular destinations and enjoy them in a more sustainable manner in the age of Instagram? Please comment below.
Do please share this post if you found it useful and remember to always seek personal growth by exploring the World responsibly.
